Manes & Tales
One of Iceland’s most popular attractions!
Always a horse, never a pony
Sometimes the solid and sturdy silhouette of the Icelandic horse is the only animal visible in the winter landscape. Small and extremely woolly, with a long mane and fluffy forelock, these hardy creatures seem oblivious to the wind and snow, as they stand munching away at the large piles of hay left for them by their farmer owner. By contrast, the summer version is sleek and shiny, often with a tiny foal at foot or as part of a large grazing herd.
Icelanders love their horses. Every town has on its outskirts a large area of stabling and paddocks, for here horses are kept in the same way we have cats: as honoured and beloved pets. Summer evenings and weekends are the best times to see riders out on the ash paths that run beside the roads. Active, energetic, and quite unique to observe, particularly when horse and rider, in perfect harmony, show off the special ‘tolt’ gait.
Summer riding with friends in East Iceland
Historically, the horse in Iceland has been an indispensable provider of travel and transport in a land without well-made roads or easy to navigate terrain. Tough and utterly reliable, the horse preserved contact between communities, carrying the sick or pulling heavily laden carts. From soon after the time of settlement, Icelanders rode from every corner of the country to the annual Althing or parliament meeting that was first established in 930 AD. Nowadays, such long distance rides are still available to small groups of experienced riders who seek the solitude and endurance of riding ancient Icelandic pathways and seeing it as it should be seen. Twenty first century journeys like this often keep to the tradition of riding with a herd of loose horses and staying at night in mountain huts or remote farms, but it is true to say that in many other respects this is a relatively luxurious way to travel compared to the journeys of over 1000 years ago.
Highland trail riding with loose horses
Riding astride
My own interest in early travellers to Iceland has led me to read of the journeys of a surprisingly high number of hardy souls who not only voyaged to Iceland but then set off into or across the Highlands on horseback. There are just two to mention here, both of whom set out on adventures that I fully intend to repeat at least or in part. It perhaps goes without saying that while happy to travel independently, I also welcome any indications of interest from fellow equestrians!
In the summer of 1871, William Morris made the first of his voyages from Scotland to ride across Iceland, embarking on a difficult and often quite miserable journey in cold, wet conditions in heavy and unsuitable clothing. Some 15 years later, a very independent and recently widowed Mrs Tweedie made Iceland her destination for a 'girl's ride'. Although in many ways, a similarly gruelling experience, she did at least have long waterproof (leather) boots to keep her feet dry when fording rivers and chose a less daunting route than Morris.
In both cases, the accounts are fascinating to read, both from a travel narrative and landscape perspective as well as to learn about the degree to which Iceland was such an impoverished country. Morris travelled for self-reflection, whereas for Tweedie the purpose was more for adventure, and both achieved their aims. Morris writes in detail, almost to the level of complexity that is to be found in an Icelandic saga. He must have spent many night-time hours (of summer daylight) making his notes. Mrs Tweedie's writing is detailed and observational yet much more conversational. One of her most notable and detailed commentaries is of the 'ride like a man' dilemma that she and her companion faced as soon as they started their ride. For reasons of pragmatism, they very soon adapted to riding astride, since the Icelandic version of riding side-saddle too quickly proved to be quite unsuitable for riding at speed across rough lava.
On the beach: a dream realised
Although I haven't ridden across as much of Iceland as I would like (yet) I do know that while travel on foot is an excellent way to imbibe all that is best about the real Iceland that I have come to love, I know too that the hoof is even better. The excellent writing of both Morris and Tweedie and many others before and since, quite definitely bear this out. In the late summer of 2022, I had the good fortune to share the magic of Iceland’s west coast on horseback with a good friend. The Snaefellsness peninsula is known for its combination of saga history, mixed geology, golden beaches (rather than black), dramatic waves and the mysticism of the glacier Snaefellsjokull. Staying on a traditional Icelandic horse farm in a tiny cosy cottage, we were treated to rides around the foot of the ancient cliff line (now steep sided mountains) across lava and streams amongst migrating swans and grazing sheep. Drizzly weather and hovering clouds were the perfect partner to this atmospheric landscape. Our gallant, enthusiastic little horses picked their way along the rugged paths and tracks while we chatted to our friendly lead rider about her life on the farm.
Reflecting on an exciting gallop
The highlight of our stay was to ride the short distance from the farm and across the dunes at low tide to the sea. The horses were as excited as us and knew exactly the purpose of our journey. Miles of open sea, surf breaking on to the firm sand, blue skies and a lively breeze set the scene perfectly. What, for many people, would feel like a crazy combination of factors pointing to a terrifying experience was, for us, a huge sense of anticipation followed by exhilaration. Fast? Yes. Out of control? No. Horses enjoying the whole experience and happy to have us aboard? Absolutely yes! Without a doubt, one of my most memorable Icelandic moments, with a lovely collection of ‘grinning from ear to ear' photos at the end as we gathered ourselves to return over the dunes to the farm.
